Beyond The Hills, A Holiday In Shimla
By Nayanna Chakrbarty
Vacationing beyond the hills is a marvelous experience. The cold, fresh air, the deep gorges, the lush meadows dotting the valleys and an occasional herd of grazing lambs, goats or yaks makes it picture perfect. This urge to mingle with the nomadic lifestyle, ventured me again to get close to the Himalayas.
I chose to holiday in Shimla, in the state of Himachal Pradesh, India. This hill station has been the apple of the eye of nature lovers across continents for centuries.
Shimla tourism is much publicized by local as well as international tour operators. The quaint town is studded with resorts, budget hotels and luxury hotels. The cozy, silent hillocks wrapped in a mist, and the swaying pine trees make Shimla a popular honeymoon destination too.One glimpse at the majestic Himalayan mountain range, and its hypnotic charm caressed my distressed and overtly stressed mind. Of course, the Shimla travel guide does give you all the information that you need, but the explorer ingrained in me only gets satiated when I explore things in my own style.
The architecture around the main city gave the distinct feeling of the colonial era that has been retained since 1864. The British had declared Shimla as India’s summer capital during their reign. A stroll down the city’s hub will distinctly help you locate the ideal place to watch the excited honeymooners, the hotspots for the youth, best shopping corners and places to satiate the growling stomach.
If you plan to spend your vacation in Shimla in ultimate luxury then your castle awaits at Mashobra, which is around 10 minutes upward drive from the buzzing tourists. It is the Wildflower Hall is located along the winding, wooded slopes. Its premier owner was G.H.M Batten, the private secretary to the Earl of Lytton, who was then the Viceroy. However, Lord Kitchener of Khartoum, the commander-in-chief of the British army was the one who commemorated this place as his residence. This property has passed down several hands until a fire gutted down the old grandeur. In 1996, the Oberoi hotel group resurrected it as a luxury resort.
The Wildflower Hall
Wildflower Hall gives the impression of a fairytale, magical kingdom that welcomes its guests with an eminent aristocracy. Its interior designing boldly reflects the colonial era with its regal paneled mantle, crystal chandeliers, ornate mirrors and roaring fireplace. The Lord Kitchener suite is the only elite suite that provides two bedrooms adjoining a large living room and flamboyant amenities.
Each morning as I arose, it felt like a new escapade as I lay gazed, besotted by golden hue of the glorious Himalayan range. After spending a day or so roaming the streets and learning the routine of the locals, I decided to unveil my adventurous side. The first challenge, I decided to tackle was the rapids of the Sutlej River and to my surprise, they were not as aggressive as the Ganges. Rafting in the Ganges is a not for the faint-hearted. Well, that adventure is reserved for another day.
The Himalyan Range
Mountain biking was my next dose of adrenalin rush planned for the following day. Twenty minutes drive from the hotel. The world’s largest Himalayan cedar forest beckoned. The perfect sparkling sunlight, the light morning breeze, was comforting and yet my heart leapt raring to take on a new adventure. I had hired an all-terrain bike with six gears. The entire trail was 18 km, and I was off for the jungle adventure at seven degrees celsius.
The air got thinner as I peddled higher. Breathlessly, I looked below the ledge to admire the deep, limitless gorge and thought- I am living my life on the edge literally and chuckled. The majestic cedars played hide-n-seek with the sun and at times plummeted with the momentum of my bumpy ride. The trail ended at the top of the reservoir where ground water is collected and distributed around the city. After a ten-minute break, it was time to cycle downhill.
Mountain Biking Trail
Shimla is a trekker’s paradise for hardcore and novice enthusiasts. I was spoilt for choice and was forced to wonder what should I explore first- the blossoming apple orchards, glorious pine trees or to delve around Kufri, a ski destination. My trail around the area of Chail was at an altitude of 2250 meters, and it was here the expelled Maharaja of Patiala had made his home.
Chail has a wildlife sanctuary and a large ground that serves a dual purpose for cricket and polo lovers. Another trail around Mashobra leads to the Presidential retreat, which is the summer getaway for the President of India.
The Himalayan weather played truant from its expected forecast the next day. This provided a rare opportunity to experience sunshine, rain, fog and snowfall within a span of four hours along my journey to Hatu. The Hatu peak is at a height of 3300 meters where Goddess Hatu resides. The bright sunlight glistened on the Shali peak as I proceeded to Fagu. Then, it began to drizzle as we reached Naldehra.
There is a fascinating story attached to this place. Lord Curzon, the Viceroy, was so enchanted with the beauty and tranquility of this quaint hill station that he used this name as the middle name for his daughter. He also created India’s first nine-hole golf course course here. At the height of 2044 meters, golfing at Naldehra is quite a challenge. The current landscape accommodates an eighteen hole course. The lush scenery around can be covered on horseback as horses are readily available on hire.
Hatu Peak
Our path further elevated as we drove past smaller townships like Theog and Narkanda, which are popular ski resorts. Apple and cherry orchards dotted this area like stars at night. The long winding journey through the valleys and highlands was thoroughly invigorating, and the reason was not just the mountain air but the courtesy of fellow drivers. Despite, the narrow route, sharp-blind turn points, none of the drivers honked endlessly. They used headlights to signal the driver ahead when they wished to overtake. The drivers in front signaled them back with the right indicator that they can surely move along, and the road was clear. It was an amazing feat and a sign of brotherhood.
The 7 km road to reach the mountain top of Hatu was extremely hilly with 6-inch snow laden land on one side and a steep drop on the other. Suddenly, nature changed its mood and allowed an impenetrable fog to take over. Visibility was hardly one foot and with blinking distress lights we managed to reach to the top.
Pine Wood Forest
Frosty wind embraced me ruthlessly, the moment I stepped out. With chattering teeth, I stumbled through the fog to Goddess Hatu’s makeshift temple. The main temple is still under construction but whatever was completed could give me a fair idea as to its creative marvel. Intricate cravings along with wooden inlay could be seen on the external walls. Some designs looked like lotus and dragons. I couldn’t explore further as the surge in the wind velocity increased and there was a flash downpour. However, it wasn’t plain water but frozen… it was snowing.
I dashed to the car seeking a comfortable refuge. The surrounding vista created a scene from a thriller movie. The forlorn trees sheltered with the dense fog, swaying in the wind and behind the shadows, something laid wait. I was sure this image would definitely spring up the next time I pen down my fiction chronicles.
My holiday in Shimla was an ideal blend of ultra luxury with impeccable service, safe adventure sports facilities, exclusive solitude and regale tranquility.
Planning A Vacation To Shimla?
1) Direct flight is available from Delhi. Shimla is well networked with trains, and regular luxury buses can be booked from several cities in the Northern states of India. Cars can be hired from tour operators from Delhi and Gurgoan.
2) Hotels, resorts are available in all budgets. Booking should be done in advance as it is a weekend getaway for people living in the northern states of India.
3) Weather plays a vital role so make sure you are aware of the season when you make plans. Winters tend to numb the local buzz.